Searching for the Soul of Crete, Ep. 133

We were interviewed recently by Jeanneau America for an expose on what owners do and see with their boats. As we sat on the shores of Newport, Rhode Island, explaining our exploits in the U.S. onboard Thalia, and now onboard Sea Rose in the Mediterranean, our host Paul remarked on how we must be big planners to accomplish these sailing goals. And in general Karen and I are pretty serious task masters, fortified by our many years in corporate America working to get project teams focused in a common direction. But as we awoke at dawn inside the caldera of Santorini, and pointed the bow of Sea Rose south, we were living like carefree teenagers. Crete, about 65 miles distant, was big, downwind, and a place we knew nothing about. So we decided to sail there. Simple as that!

The nearly direct south route to Crete

Many destinations had been out of scope for our westbound march out of Greece, in the pre-Covid19 planning talks we had over the winter. But this was a new game. We weren’t going to make it to the English Channel by the end of this summer as originally intended, and Greece was taking good care of us, so we dialed back our hit list, with a determination to see more of the Greece we loved. 

Crete is a part of Greece, but like other large islands owned by mainland parents such as Corsica and Sardinia, the Cretans have a loyalty to their island first, and to the greater Greece nation second. It’s not like they harbor any animosity towards Athens. Their island has been fought over and occupied by far too many foreign powers, even by European standards. There were the Byzantines, the Romans, the Venetians, the Arabs, the Ottoman Turks, the Germans during WWII, to name just a few. Yet, the Cretans were some of the first to send personnel to fight for the Greek War of Independence starting in 1821. Ironically, major civilization on the island started with the Minoans, who were renowned for their peace-loving nature. We were to tour the remains of the Minoan palace of Knossos in a few days and revel in the fact that very little in the way of defensive equipment – forts, castles, spears, cannons – were found during the archaeological digs. I couldn’t wait to discover this island and understand further it’s contrasts and contradictions. 

We unfurled the jib and tried motorsailing, as the dramatic silhouette of Santorini faded to our rear. Before long the forecasted northwesterlies kicked in and allowed us to replace the engine with full main, jib and a splendid 6 knots of beam-reaching speed. Indeed, we put the boat on autopilot and had to do very little in the way of sail trimming, as the steady 10-15 knots of NW wind blew blissfully all day, until we were within 5 miles of the Cretan coastline. Not since we had entered the Aegean had we been given a gift of such pure and easy sailing. 

Blissful, consistent sailing south to Crete

As we motored the final approach into Porto Gouves, a small privately run marina affiliated with an adjacent hotel complex, we were warned by the lone marina attendant to stay close as we rounded the breakwater-protected entrance. This was sage advice, especially for a pair of attention-fatigued captains who had been on the water all day. Large breakers crashing onto the town beach were just a boat length to our port side, ready to swallow us up if we didn’t execute our turn properly. This was all exacerbated by the fact that, with me on bow watch yelling back to Karen to ‘stay 10 meters off the breakwater’, Karen thought I meant to ‘stay at least 10 meters off the breakwater’, a prudent approach near most breakwaters where the boulders and rip-rap can extend out further underwater, like the hidden underwater dangers of an iceberg. But in fact I meant to say no further away than 10 meters, as the marina attendant warned me it got very shallow near the beach breakers. We got on the same page quick enough, but it reminded me of cockpit voice recordings between pilot and co-pilot right before a crash. We vowed to be more specific in our wording, and in these critical situations, to ask the other to repeat the directions back as a form of confirmation. 

Late day in Porto Gouves, with a full moon rising

The Porto Gouves marina looked like a scene from ‘The Day After Tomorrow’, with only three other boats in the water, weeds growing up in the cracks on the pier, and a vacant and dark hotel building across the frontage road, having never opened for the session. After weeks of crashing into big seas under reduced sail in the Aegean, Sea Rose was coated everywhere with salt, and we took advantage of the unlimited water supply to thoroughly wash down the entire exterior, giving the salt no respite from our high pressure hose. Finally, Sea Rose was back to being a proper lady again. Whenever we do these big cleanups and re-provisioning at a marina, my thoughts shift to an expedition party coming back into civilization from the wilds of the backcountry. We are largely self-sufficient onboard Sea Rose which allows us to explore remote anchorages and make long passages to experience the beauty of Mother Nature up close, both above and below the water. But every once in a while, we need to come in from the wild to clean and stock up. We did it more often last year, with a lot of friends coming on a weekly turn to meet us at a marina, and when we do this, I long for the day when we can get back out ‘there’. 

Our initial exploits in Crete

We rented a car from Caroline’s Travel Store, a women who effortlessly switched between five languages to help her customers, and we headed inland to find the archaeological site at Knossos, the main tourist attraction in this part of Crete. We hit the road early to avoid reports of large bus groups, and to avoid the heat of the mid-day. At the entrance, we heeded more advice and hired a guide, and soon I was as much intrigued by the history as I was about this charming little old lady Eva. Knossos is the most well known of the Minoan settlements on Crete, a palace originally constructed in 2000 B.C. and then expanded in 1700 B.C. These dates alone caused me to pause and reflect. I’m 57 years old. The stones upon which I walked, and the remaining walls and courtyards that Eva lovingly interpreted for us, were older than 65 of my lifetimes! And, from all accounts, the Minoans were a peaceful society, where they carved out a life on Crete with a population back then greater than that currently on the island! Life seemed pretty primitive to me, dare I say primeval, just 100 years ago. There were no cell phones, no internet, no refrigeration. The light bulb had just been introduced, flights at Kitty Hawk had just been launched, and the Model T was early in it’s production run, with the horse and buggy still prominent. Yet, the Minoans, 3700 years ago, had found a way to develop and sustain a safe, economically viable society. Less than 100 years ago, we had had two world wars and came close to annihilating our entire species with mutually-assured nuclear destruction. Too often, we toss aside the knowledge and expertise of prior civilizations, despite the clear evidence of a highly advanced culture, able to survive socially and economically in the absence of all the comforts and conveniences we have available today. 

Our introduction to Knossos, with our guide Eva
Restored staircase to the ‘Queens Room’, Knossos
The throne room, and restored wall paintings, Knossos

In front of me were the remains of a four-story palace, and again, I was left bewildered. A single story building would seem like a challenge back then, in the absence of modern mechanization and hand tools. We need to re-evaluate our own self image as a superior society and dig for the lessons to be gleaned from these ancient yet advanced civilizations. 

Bidding adieu to Eva, we went in search of the latest advances in wine making techniques on Crete. The island has an extremely tall mountain range that runs down the middle of the island, with fertile valleys throughout the northern interior. In recent times Crete has become well known for it’s respectable wines. Regrettably, Google maps has not kept up with the trend, and we took our rental car on a safari of sorts, with Google taking us off the main paved roads on a back wrenching pot-holed, stones-as-big-as-bowling-balls, ride over dirt roads. At one point, we had to abandon the car on the edge of a hillside vineyard and climb the rest of the goat path by foot, discovering a perfectly respectable road leading into the spacious winery parking lot! On our second stop, at Titakis winery, we were hosted by a cheerful young woman, Eleni, who had recently finished her wine studies in Athens and returned to her home in Crete to share enology responsibilities with the founder. The wine locker on Sea Rose hadn’t seen such a boost in inventory since our travels around the interior of France!

Abandoned rental car, in the olive and vineyard fields of interior Crete
Lyrarakis Winery, Crete
Titakis winery tour, with in-house enologist Eleni showing us the massive concrete storage vats

Our rental car wanderings took us to the nearby city of Heraklion, the nerve center of the island, and with a surprising number of flights landing and taking off despite the pandemic. We chose to duck the mid day heat by attending the archaeological museum with its many restored artifacts from Knossos. But I must confess, wearing a mask for extended periods, even inside buildings here, is a fatiguing, sweaty affair. I couldn’t wait to walk through the exit doors and into the heat but mask-free world. We had been told to not expect too much from this big city, and as we walked part of the waterfront, there was no mistaking this was a rough and ready town. The one notable piece of eye candy was the Venetian harbor. Along many of these northern cities, you will find a big modern harbor enclosing a small, shallow, often nearly round inner harbor, built by the Venetians. Often adorned with a tower or full-on castle at the entrance, their diminutive size and depth can make them unsuitable for most larger craft, giving one the advantage of appreciating their beautiful construction absent the super yachts and the associated over-commercialization. The Venetians also put their handicraft to work building showcases of long arched-roof stone boat houses, many of which still ringed the harbor, some converted for modern use, others left to age gracefully.

Heraklion’s inner Venetian harbor, guarded by a restored fortress
The arched-roof Venetian boathouses, Heraklion

With our first impressions of Crete firming implanted in our memory, it was time for us to make our way west along the northern coast. From this mid-point, the next major harbor of Rythimno beckoned. Our craft – clean and bright and re-provisioned – was ready and willing to take her curious caretakers onward. Crete – that big, odd island at the bottom of Greece – was starting to unfold its treasures before our eyes, and we were eager to take it all in.

Be Open to the Unexpected, Ep. 131

This blog post covers our departure from Donousa, a stop along Naxos’s south coast and ends with stunning Milos and the nearby islands of Palaigos and Kimolos.

Some stops are nothing more than functional … 100% utilitarian, with little to no entertainment value and that’s just how it is! This should be fine, right? However, it is easy for all of us to get caught up in wanting an amazing experience at every turn. We really struggle when we have friends or family on board because they only have a week and we want each day to be full to the point of overflowing with sights and activities; we hope that each evening’s anchorage will be beautiful and memorable – yet one without drama where we can all get a restful night’s sleep. If you have spent any time living on a sailboat or going on an extended driving trip, you know how hard it is to balance moving along on your planned, longer-term route while also having enriching or exciting experiences.

I was looking at the current portion of our summer’s journey as something to tolerate between special stops. We had recently left the amazing islands of Samos, Patmos and Arki and we were headed toward renown Milos but we had at least two stops along the way. However, the first of these stops was in Roussa Harbor on Donousa – the final island Tom covered in the previous blog – and it was a very pleasant surprise and a place I would hate to categorize as functional. We had a beautiful anchorage with calm seas in the large, protected bay as the wind was wild just outside and the busy, welcoming taverna fed our souls as well as our bodies.

Overlooking the harbor at Donousa where Sea Rose alone is at anchor
Continue reading “Be Open to the Unexpected, Ep. 131”

Love Thy Siesta, Love Thy Sister, Ep. 130

There are not many marine preserves in Greece – in fact, not many in the entire the Med – but we set our course for the island of Arki, a soon-to-be ratified part of the North Dodecanese Wildlife Refuge, and a short distance from Leros where we had started from just a week ago. I wasn’t sure what to expect from a protected area in Greece, but our arrival in the calm harbor of Port Augusta answered any doubts I had. Here was an only slightly larger version of the charming little village of Agathonisi that we had visited last week. Approaching the small town quay, we could see plenty of space around the few boats already med moored to the quay. After the warmup at Agathonisi, Karen was in natural form as she turned Sea Rose around and began backing into the quay as I lowered the anchor. Med mooring with two people is a bit tricky, as you can really use a third person to manage tying the stern lines to the quay. Thankfully, a gentleman from a nearby boat wandered over and helped with that task. And the reduced breeze reduced the stress level as well. 

Port Augusta, on the island of Arki
Continue reading “Love Thy Siesta, Love Thy Sister, Ep. 130”

Boat Projects in Paradise – Ep. 129

It was July 15th when we were finally underway for this pandemic-impacted sailing season. There were far more unknowns to contend with this year but since we already acted on the tough decision to come to Europe amid all the potential for new and changing travel restrictions we had to dive in and start exploring. This summer would be an exercise in flexibility … and not of the musculature type!

For our first night away from Sea Rose’s winter home, we set our course for Agathonisi, a short trip to a small island to the NE of Leros. Being early season, we have a list of projects that would steal our time over the coming days, so picking a place close by seemed perfect. Being afternoon when we finally departed the boatyard, we immediately experienced high winds and quickly found ourselves flying past small islets at 9 kts of boat speed. I hope we’re ready for this wild ride!

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A Visa and A Smirk, Ep. 128

Our daughter, with a bit of a smirk, said, “I’ll see you in a day or two” as she dropped us off at the airport. The problem was, we were packed to the gunwales with gear for a summer of sailing onboard Sea Rose, and we had no intention of coming back home in a few days. But this is the era of Covid-19 and most any effort to plan for the future seems futile. 

A nearly empty international terminal in Boston, apart from all of our bags!
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Caves and Cliffs and Haystacks, Oh My! Ep. 124

The last blog left off with us on the verge of practicing our meditative states as we outwaited a Meltemi wind that hammered Paros and the surrounding Cycladic islands for over a week. We were in for at least another day of 35 knots-plus winds and we were also about to welcome Steve and Christy on board. Steve was our broker for when we purchased Sea Rose two years ago. He helped us take delivery of her in France so we could sail in the Mediterranean before taking her to our home waters of Maine in the United States. I went to elementary school with Christy and we were friends throughout our school years. We lost contact with one another for a while as we each raised our families then reconnected again when we were planning a sail through the American Great Lakes.

At least we knew these two would understand the challenges Mother Nature introduces to sailing schedules and plans. They are located on the eastern end of Lake Ontario which sees its fair share of crazy weather and demanding sea states! Tom and I spent the summer of 2017 getting up into and navigating throughout the Great Lakes. If you are interested in learning more, see our Youtube channel playlist, “Sailing Into The American Heartland”.

First in our seven-part series!
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Meltemi Reimagined, Ep. 123

As we looked back on our time with each of the collections of people we had aboard Sea Rose over the past summer, special details stand out for each group. Some had particularly amazing snorkeling experiences or a bunch of caves to explore. Others had lots of opportunity for star gazing from isolated coves. Our good friends Bob and Lisa joined us on the island of Mykonos, Greece and got off Sea Rose in Paros and their time with us was defined by high winds. As Tom mentioned in our last blog post, the hot, dry winds that come out of the North and slam down through the Aegean Sea during the Greek summers are called the Meltemi and we got very familiar with that term while Bob and Lisa were with us!

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Crashing Through the Cyclades, Ep. 122

As we departed Poros in the pre-dawn light, we would be leaving the Saronic Gulf and entering the greater Aegean Sea region. This part of the Aegean is best known for the Cyclades islands, with popular destinations like Santorini, Mykonos and Naxos. And popular with our friends, of which we had four groups joining us over the next five weeks. Karen and I had one more week by ourselves; seven days to cross the 100 miles to Mykonos, where we would pickup our good friends Bob and Lisa. The excitement of having guests after several weeks of being by ourselves was tempered by the reality check of the mid-Summer wind conditions in this area. We had been casually watching the weather forecasts in the Aegean since we had arrived in Greece a month ago. Boy, was this going to be interesting! July and August here are renowned for the Meltemi, a very forceful wind that blows down from the Black Sea and fans out over the Cyclades islands. It can ebb and flow, but when it really blows, it can carry on for five or more days, pinning you down in the closest south-facing harbor, trying to avoid the fetch of waves that start several hundred miles to the north.

A typical Meltemi wind forecast for the Cyclades islands, with red meaning 25 knots or greater
Continue reading “Crashing Through the Cyclades, Ep. 122”

Ancient and Not-so-Ancient Wonders! Ep. 121

If you read our previous post, you will remember we were poised to pass through the Corinth Canal, an east-west oriented waterway 6.4 kilometers (4.0 miles) in length. The eastern end comes out in the Saronic Gulf, near Athens. Further east is the Aegean Sea with her world-famous, island littered cruising grounds. Look at the map below – Point A shows where we were 10 days ago, Point B is where we hope to be in another 10 days. Utilizing the Corinth Canal means we could go in nearly a straight line from one wonderful cruising playground to another while eliminating the added risks associated with the greater distance and more open-water navigation required for going below the Peloponnese. Besides, canals and their roles throughout history and across societies are fascinating, as I hope to illustrate.

Our rough route, taking advantage of the Corinth Canal
Saronic Gulf route and stops
Inside the outer breakwater, Sea Rose motors toward the lowered roadway at the beginning of the western end of the Corinth Canal.

Corinth Canal History – For over 2000 years, rulers in the area now known as Greece had envisioned a waterway that would cut across the isthmus of Corinth and allow for easy navigation between the Ionian and Aegean Seas. Once built, the canal would save about 140 nautical miles over the journey around the Peloponnese.  Several proposals for such a waterway were put forth, the first known in the 7th century BC. The first construction project began in 67 AD but the effort was abandoned when Emperor Nero, who was the visionary who initiated the work, died. Their total effort amounted to having dug a total of 700 meters, approximately a tenth of the total distance across the isthmus.  The project that would culminate in completion was begun in April of 1882 and the canal was used for the first time on October 28, 1893.

Today, the canal is used primarily by tourist cruises and private boats since it is too narrow for commercial ships. The single channel is 8 meters deep and 24.6 meters wide. Groups of boats travel in a single direction at a time, due to the narrowness of the channel. Each boat wishing to transit calls the canal operator with details on their boat and which direction (eastbound or westbound) they intend to travel. The operator groups boats together and directs them regarding where to wait, when to begin transit and how to pay the tariff. The canal closes for 12 hours each week to perform regular maintenance. The high walls are composed of limestone and erosion is a continual challenge.

We had heard the wind influence in the canal can be significant. The land both to the north and south of the Gulf of Corinth quickly climbs to several thousand feet. When you add long, hot days warming the rocky landscape and large cool bodies of water nearby, you have all the makings for high winds, as you read how we experienced a lot of this in our previous post. Given the narrowness of the channel, we were hoping our morning passage would mean less wind. We certainly didn’t want to be pushed into the canal walls. Luckily, the winds were uncommonly light as we got the call from the Canal Operator that we were clear to follow the boat named, ‘Catamaran’ who had just turned around after transiting the canal in the westbound direction. I guess this was one of the many tour boats that offer trips along this historic waterway. We had been circling outside the breakwaters on the western end of the canal after having requested an eastbound transit about an hour earlier. It was about noon when we pushed the throttle forward and passed through the breakwaters and toward the lowered roadway.

In the narrow Corinth Canal, looking back toward the western end.
Looking forward (east) with several of the bridges which cross the canal in view
Tom, biting his nails as he nervously navigates this narrow, old waterway!

Within an hour, we had made it to the eastern end and tied up along the Canal Authority’s dock to pay our transit fee. Tom learned we could fill up with diesel from a mini tanker that can drive up to the dock; it seemed like a no-brainer to take advantage of the convenience since we were already tied alongside the dock. This practice is quite common in Greece, but it certainly feels odd to have your gas station come to you!

Looking back at the raised roadway/gate which just closed and already has cars passing across it.
Mini tanker positioning himself to bring fuel to Sea Rose. We’re tied at the canal authority dock.

By 1 pm, we were casting off and heading out to explore the sights of the Saronic Gulf. First stop, Korfos, a mellow bay only 12 nm away. We had left early that same morning and going through the canal was cool but quite stressful so we were ready to drop the anchor and chill for the afternoon! Getting to this point had been a big accomplishment and we wanted to recognize that with a cooling swim and some well deserved relaxation!

We must be near the Athen’s wealth with this number of super yachts anchored in a quiet harbor!

In the morning, we moved on to Epidavros, an area rich with ancient sites. It was not even a week ago that we had visited Delphi and now, it seems, we had stumbled upon another archeological site, this one referred to as the cradle of medicine. We had read that one of the best examples of an ancient Greek amphitheater was in the hills outside of Epidavros so we would embark the following morning to make our way inland. However, our first day here would be spent locally in both old and new Epidavros.

The upper (smaller) harbor is new Epidavros, where Sea Rose is anchored. Ancient or old Epidavros is in the foreground. The single sailboat is anchored outside of the underwater ancient marketplace.

As we explored on shore, we learned that another ancient amphitheater existed between these two towns. We also read about a portion of Old Epidavros which was now underwater but which could be viewed by snorkeling in the shallow water covering what had been the town’s waterfront marketplace. Of course we would take our dinghy from our anchorage in New Epidavros over to old town – this is something we couldn’t miss. Wow – we stumbled upon these special places almost by accident.

Our walk toward the local amphitheater took us through this lovely olive grove.
The partially restored ‘small’ amphitheater outside old Epidavros.
Snorkeling over ruins of the ancient Epidavros marketplace which lies two meters underwater just offshore.

Early on our second day in Epidavros, we hopped on a bus bound for the archeological site called, ‘The Sanctuary of Aslepios at Epidaurus’. Not only could we walk around this huge and acoustically perfect amphitheater, but we also learned that this location was a vast site of temples, hospital buildings, dormitory style residences, baths and more, all devoted to healing. Much of the site had been constructed between the 6th and the 4th centuries BC.

Theatre of Epidaurus at the Sanctuary of Asklepios – Peloponnese, Greece

The theatre is the best preserved monument in the Sanctuary of Asklepios, in the foothills outside of Epidavros. This was erected at the end of the 4th century B.C and excavated in 1881.

The Sanctuary is the earliest organized sanatorium and is significant for its association with the history of medicine, providing evidence of the transition from belief in divine healing to the science of medicine. Initially, in the 2nd millennium BCE it was a site of ceremonial healing practices with curative associations that were later enriched through the cults of Apollo Maleatas in the 8th century BCE and then by Asklepios in the 6th century BCE. The Sanctuary of the two gods was developed into the single most important therapeutic center of the ancient world. These practices were subsequently spread to the rest of the Greco-Roman world and the Sanctuary thus became the cradle of medicine.

Among the facilities of the classical period are buildings that represent all the functions of the Sanctuary, including healing cults and rituals, library, baths, sports, accommodation, hospital and theatre.

– World Heritage Collection UNESCO web page

We spent several hours here and left speechless. We live near Boston where ‘very old architecture’ is a couple hundred years. It is so hard for Americans to grasp ‘ancient’ without repeated exposure to incredible sites like Delphi, Epidavros and Asklepios. We felt saturated by the flood of information we had been exposed to. We picked up our anchor and headed for a remote island!

Some of the excavated grounds of Asklepios
Some of the excavated grounds of Asklepios

Before we settled in for the night, we made a quick stop off the southern shore of the tiny island of Thorussa (seen on the left in the photo below). There was supposedly a ship wreck that you could see in 20 meters of water and it conveniently had a mooring buoy for boats to tie off to. The still shots didn’t come out well so when we produce a video of our experience here, I’ll link to it.

Tiny island of Thorussa, in the Saronic Gulf, Greece

We motored a few miles along the southern shore of the somewhat larger island of Agistri and found a cove we hoped could accommodate us for the night. It would take some work, but it was stunning and we were up for a challenge. We wanted to get tucked in on the western side of this cove to have maximum protection from expected afternoon/evening winds. We dropped our anchor in 11 meters of water and backed toward the corner of the cove. Tom was ready with stern lines so I held the boat in place once the anchor was securely holding by keeping our engine in reverse with a moderate throttle. Tom got one line tied onto a shore-side rock and the other, he looped over a bollard placed along a rough stairway going up the back of the cove.

Drone shot of Sea Rose tied stern-to in a beautiful cove on the southern side of Agistri Island, Greece

We had the cove to ourselves for most of our two-night stay. The snorkeling was tremendous, making our afternoon activity of underwater exploration an easy choice – we would fondly recall this spot in the weeks to come. Around the corner from the main cove, there was a make-shift rock landing that had a simple ladder affixed to it. This was basically serving as a small dock which allowed people access to a lovely swimming hole. A group of young adults were jumping from the cliffs surrounding this water access point. We would later learn this was called a ‘beach’ by the locals even though there was not a grain of sand or a pebble to be had! The appeal was obvious; however, the marketers should come up with something other than ‘beach’ as the attraction classification!

Looking across the cove that we had all to ourselves. Sea Rose is pretty happy here!

The second day in this anchorage was my birthday so we decided to visit the only restaurant in the tiny township up the hill from the cove that evening. The winds had been high all day and by early evening, we had a bit of a swell coming into the cove. Because we were pointed out of the cove, it wasn’t that uncomfortable on the boat. However, getting off the boat might be difficult. We didn’t want to leave the dinghy out near the ‘dock’ with the ladder because it would be pushed against the rocks the entire time we were on shore. Instead, we would to try to scale the steep rock-face that one of our stern lines was tied to. I had put on my favorite dress and put my shoes in my zippered bag … I would need to get off quickly in between swells. I perched on the dinghy’s bow and Tom took me up next to the cliff. I quickly grabbed hold of some of the rocks and he pulled back away. I couldn’t hold myself and my foot was slipping. I didn’t want to slip straight down the set of rocks so I pushed myself backwards as I let go and fell flat on my back in the deep water. I went completely under, back-pack and all. Tom quickly grabbed my arm and got me back into the dinghy. Uggh. We quickly made our way back to Sea Rose and I pulled everything out of my backpack to make sure nothing was water damaged. Amazingly, very little water got into the pack’s compartment so our electronics were alive for another day! I, however, was deflated and embarrassed. Since my husband is a very sweet person, he gently encouraged me to dry off and change clothes so we could try another approach. He would take me over to the stone dock and leave me with a bag containing a change of clothes for him. He would take the dinghy back to Sea Rose then swim over to the landing, change into his dry clothes then walk with me up to the restaurant.

My first dress of the night – ready for my birthday dinner ashore!
Looking down at what the locals call their ‘beach’! Sea Rose is right around the corner to the left.

Wouldn’t you know that the restaurant is closed one night a week … tonight! Now it was Tom’s turn to be deflated. However, I was so impressed with his attempts to make my birthday dinner special that I tried to get him laughing as I thanked him for the effort. Dinner out was not going to happen! We walked back down the hill and onto the rock landing. Tom changed back into his wet swimsuit and jumped in for the short swim back to get the dinghy. Back on the boat, we opened the best bottle of wine we had on board and pulled together a simple dinner. It was a memorable birthday spent with my favorite person in the world!  Thank you, Tom, for making life fun.

We got an early start the next morning to make our way down to the island of Poros, which sits less than a kilometer off the mainland of the Peloponnese. What a great number of boats we found scattered through the many anchorages near Poros and along the waterfront docks which surround this cute and bustling town onfthe same name. We found a service to do our laundry and good markets to restock our fresh food. We anchored off the main town for our first night in the area – we had a birthday dinner to go ashore for after-all!

The town of Poros, Greece on the island of the same name.
Some of the long waterfront surrounding the town of Poros, Greece

Our time in the Saronic Gulf was nearing an end. We had friends we would meet on the island of Mykonos, roughly 80 miles east, in less than a week so we would enjoy one more day near Poros before hopping through some of the Cyclades Islands on our way to Mykonos. We picked our laundry up early then relocated to a cove called ‘Russian Bay’. Today was our 27th wedding anniversary and we would do something we seldom let ourselves do – we would go to a beach-bar to relax in lounge chairs, sip cold adult beverages and not do anything else except chat. Aaaahhhhh!

Greek pride on full display on this old chapel!

In the early evening hours, we hiked up the hill behind the cove that we had relocated Sea Rose to. The view from the hilltop was beautiful and the breeze refreshing. We watched boat after boat sail around the headlands toward the town of Poros.

Sea Rose in her second anchorage, Russian Bay, near Poros. These rocks were amazing!
Happy 27th Anniversary to my favorite adventure companion!
Early evening drone shot of sailboats navigating around the headlands protecting the vast harbor of Poros, Greece.

We departed just after sun-up the next day. The sooner we got started, the less intense the sea state would be. However, the channel between the island of Poros and the Peloponnese Peninsula is narrow, shallow and crowded – a passage best done with sunlight.

Overlooking the narrow canal between Poros and the Peloponnese Peninsula, Greece

We were in open waters by 8 am and would soon pass out of the Saronic Gulf and into the Cycladic Island group. Although we only got a taste of the treasures scattered throughout this part of Greece, we will always think back fondly on our time in the Saronic Island Group.

Backwards Is the New Forwards, Ep. 120

“Rion Bridge, Rion Bridge, this is the sailing vessel Sea Rose, over!”

“Sea Rose, go ahead.”

“Yes, Rion Bridge, we are a 13 meter sailing vessel with a height of 19 meters, approaching the bridge heading East. We request permission to pass.”

“Sea Rose, you are clear to transit the bridge. You must use the north channel. Call again when you are one mile away.”

Our VHF radio conversation with the Rion Bridge Traffic Control office marks the early morning start to our passage into the Gulf of Corinth. This short cut to the Saronic Gulf and Aegean Sea – the ‘real’ Greece if you believe the travel brochures – was very intentional. There was no way we could round the big bulge south of us comprised of the Peloponnese peninsula without a serious hit to our time line. Karen and I were eager to see the eastern portion of Greece and re-discover the Cyclades Islands that we so fondly remembered from our honeymoon. And a sailing trip through Greece wouldn’t be complete without exploring these classic blue and white washed islands. 

Continue reading “Backwards Is the New Forwards, Ep. 120”