Ancient and Not-so-Ancient Wonders! Ep. 121

If you read our previous post, you will remember we were poised to pass through the Corinth Canal, an east-west oriented waterway 6.4 kilometers (4.0 miles) in length. The eastern end comes out in the Saronic Gulf, near Athens. Further east is the Aegean Sea with her world-famous, island littered cruising grounds. Look at the map below – Point A shows where we were 10 days ago, Point B is where we hope to be in another 10 days. Utilizing the Corinth Canal means we could go in nearly a straight line from one wonderful cruising playground to another while eliminating the added risks associated with the greater distance and more open-water navigation required for going below the Peloponnese. Besides, canals and their roles throughout history and across societies are fascinating, as I hope to illustrate.

Our rough route, taking advantage of the Corinth Canal
Saronic Gulf route and stops
Inside the outer breakwater, Sea Rose motors toward the lowered roadway at the beginning of the western end of the Corinth Canal.

Corinth Canal History – For over 2000 years, rulers in the area now known as Greece had envisioned a waterway that would cut across the isthmus of Corinth and allow for easy navigation between the Ionian and Aegean Seas. Once built, the canal would save about 140 nautical miles over the journey around the Peloponnese.  Several proposals for such a waterway were put forth, the first known in the 7th century BC. The first construction project began in 67 AD but the effort was abandoned when Emperor Nero, who was the visionary who initiated the work, died. Their total effort amounted to having dug a total of 700 meters, approximately a tenth of the total distance across the isthmus.  The project that would culminate in completion was begun in April of 1882 and the canal was used for the first time on October 28, 1893.

Today, the canal is used primarily by tourist cruises and private boats since it is too narrow for commercial ships. The single channel is 8 meters deep and 24.6 meters wide. Groups of boats travel in a single direction at a time, due to the narrowness of the channel. Each boat wishing to transit calls the canal operator with details on their boat and which direction (eastbound or westbound) they intend to travel. The operator groups boats together and directs them regarding where to wait, when to begin transit and how to pay the tariff. The canal closes for 12 hours each week to perform regular maintenance. The high walls are composed of limestone and erosion is a continual challenge.

We had heard the wind influence in the canal can be significant. The land both to the north and south of the Gulf of Corinth quickly climbs to several thousand feet. When you add long, hot days warming the rocky landscape and large cool bodies of water nearby, you have all the makings for high winds, as you read how we experienced a lot of this in our previous post. Given the narrowness of the channel, we were hoping our morning passage would mean less wind. We certainly didn’t want to be pushed into the canal walls. Luckily, the winds were uncommonly light as we got the call from the Canal Operator that we were clear to follow the boat named, ‘Catamaran’ who had just turned around after transiting the canal in the westbound direction. I guess this was one of the many tour boats that offer trips along this historic waterway. We had been circling outside the breakwaters on the western end of the canal after having requested an eastbound transit about an hour earlier. It was about noon when we pushed the throttle forward and passed through the breakwaters and toward the lowered roadway.

In the narrow Corinth Canal, looking back toward the western end.
Looking forward (east) with several of the bridges which cross the canal in view
Tom, biting his nails as he nervously navigates this narrow, old waterway!

Within an hour, we had made it to the eastern end and tied up along the Canal Authority’s dock to pay our transit fee. Tom learned we could fill up with diesel from a mini tanker that can drive up to the dock; it seemed like a no-brainer to take advantage of the convenience since we were already tied alongside the dock. This practice is quite common in Greece, but it certainly feels odd to have your gas station come to you!

Looking back at the raised roadway/gate which just closed and already has cars passing across it.
Mini tanker positioning himself to bring fuel to Sea Rose. We’re tied at the canal authority dock.

By 1 pm, we were casting off and heading out to explore the sights of the Saronic Gulf. First stop, Korfos, a mellow bay only 12 nm away. We had left early that same morning and going through the canal was cool but quite stressful so we were ready to drop the anchor and chill for the afternoon! Getting to this point had been a big accomplishment and we wanted to recognize that with a cooling swim and some well deserved relaxation!

We must be near the Athen’s wealth with this number of super yachts anchored in a quiet harbor!

In the morning, we moved on to Epidavros, an area rich with ancient sites. It was not even a week ago that we had visited Delphi and now, it seems, we had stumbled upon another archeological site, this one referred to as the cradle of medicine. We had read that one of the best examples of an ancient Greek amphitheater was in the hills outside of Epidavros so we would embark the following morning to make our way inland. However, our first day here would be spent locally in both old and new Epidavros.

The upper (smaller) harbor is new Epidavros, where Sea Rose is anchored. Ancient or old Epidavros is in the foreground. The single sailboat is anchored outside of the underwater ancient marketplace.

As we explored on shore, we learned that another ancient amphitheater existed between these two towns. We also read about a portion of Old Epidavros which was now underwater but which could be viewed by snorkeling in the shallow water covering what had been the town’s waterfront marketplace. Of course we would take our dinghy from our anchorage in New Epidavros over to old town – this is something we couldn’t miss. Wow – we stumbled upon these special places almost by accident.

Our walk toward the local amphitheater took us through this lovely olive grove.
The partially restored ‘small’ amphitheater outside old Epidavros.
Snorkeling over ruins of the ancient Epidavros marketplace which lies two meters underwater just offshore.

Early on our second day in Epidavros, we hopped on a bus bound for the archeological site called, ‘The Sanctuary of Aslepios at Epidaurus’. Not only could we walk around this huge and acoustically perfect amphitheater, but we also learned that this location was a vast site of temples, hospital buildings, dormitory style residences, baths and more, all devoted to healing. Much of the site had been constructed between the 6th and the 4th centuries BC.

Theatre of Epidaurus at the Sanctuary of Asklepios – Peloponnese, Greece

The theatre is the best preserved monument in the Sanctuary of Asklepios, in the foothills outside of Epidavros. This was erected at the end of the 4th century B.C and excavated in 1881.

The Sanctuary is the earliest organized sanatorium and is significant for its association with the history of medicine, providing evidence of the transition from belief in divine healing to the science of medicine. Initially, in the 2nd millennium BCE it was a site of ceremonial healing practices with curative associations that were later enriched through the cults of Apollo Maleatas in the 8th century BCE and then by Asklepios in the 6th century BCE. The Sanctuary of the two gods was developed into the single most important therapeutic center of the ancient world. These practices were subsequently spread to the rest of the Greco-Roman world and the Sanctuary thus became the cradle of medicine.

Among the facilities of the classical period are buildings that represent all the functions of the Sanctuary, including healing cults and rituals, library, baths, sports, accommodation, hospital and theatre.

– World Heritage Collection UNESCO web page

We spent several hours here and left speechless. We live near Boston where ‘very old architecture’ is a couple hundred years. It is so hard for Americans to grasp ‘ancient’ without repeated exposure to incredible sites like Delphi, Epidavros and Asklepios. We felt saturated by the flood of information we had been exposed to. We picked up our anchor and headed for a remote island!

Some of the excavated grounds of Asklepios
Some of the excavated grounds of Asklepios

Before we settled in for the night, we made a quick stop off the southern shore of the tiny island of Thorussa (seen on the left in the photo below). There was supposedly a ship wreck that you could see in 20 meters of water and it conveniently had a mooring buoy for boats to tie off to. The still shots didn’t come out well so when we produce a video of our experience here, I’ll link to it.

Tiny island of Thorussa, in the Saronic Gulf, Greece

We motored a few miles along the southern shore of the somewhat larger island of Agistri and found a cove we hoped could accommodate us for the night. It would take some work, but it was stunning and we were up for a challenge. We wanted to get tucked in on the western side of this cove to have maximum protection from expected afternoon/evening winds. We dropped our anchor in 11 meters of water and backed toward the corner of the cove. Tom was ready with stern lines so I held the boat in place once the anchor was securely holding by keeping our engine in reverse with a moderate throttle. Tom got one line tied onto a shore-side rock and the other, he looped over a bollard placed along a rough stairway going up the back of the cove.

Drone shot of Sea Rose tied stern-to in a beautiful cove on the southern side of Agistri Island, Greece

We had the cove to ourselves for most of our two-night stay. The snorkeling was tremendous, making our afternoon activity of underwater exploration an easy choice – we would fondly recall this spot in the weeks to come. Around the corner from the main cove, there was a make-shift rock landing that had a simple ladder affixed to it. This was basically serving as a small dock which allowed people access to a lovely swimming hole. A group of young adults were jumping from the cliffs surrounding this water access point. We would later learn this was called a ‘beach’ by the locals even though there was not a grain of sand or a pebble to be had! The appeal was obvious; however, the marketers should come up with something other than ‘beach’ as the attraction classification!

Looking across the cove that we had all to ourselves. Sea Rose is pretty happy here!

The second day in this anchorage was my birthday so we decided to visit the only restaurant in the tiny township up the hill from the cove that evening. The winds had been high all day and by early evening, we had a bit of a swell coming into the cove. Because we were pointed out of the cove, it wasn’t that uncomfortable on the boat. However, getting off the boat might be difficult. We didn’t want to leave the dinghy out near the ‘dock’ with the ladder because it would be pushed against the rocks the entire time we were on shore. Instead, we would to try to scale the steep rock-face that one of our stern lines was tied to. I had put on my favorite dress and put my shoes in my zippered bag … I would need to get off quickly in between swells. I perched on the dinghy’s bow and Tom took me up next to the cliff. I quickly grabbed hold of some of the rocks and he pulled back away. I couldn’t hold myself and my foot was slipping. I didn’t want to slip straight down the set of rocks so I pushed myself backwards as I let go and fell flat on my back in the deep water. I went completely under, back-pack and all. Tom quickly grabbed my arm and got me back into the dinghy. Uggh. We quickly made our way back to Sea Rose and I pulled everything out of my backpack to make sure nothing was water damaged. Amazingly, very little water got into the pack’s compartment so our electronics were alive for another day! I, however, was deflated and embarrassed. Since my husband is a very sweet person, he gently encouraged me to dry off and change clothes so we could try another approach. He would take me over to the stone dock and leave me with a bag containing a change of clothes for him. He would take the dinghy back to Sea Rose then swim over to the landing, change into his dry clothes then walk with me up to the restaurant.

My first dress of the night – ready for my birthday dinner ashore!
Looking down at what the locals call their ‘beach’! Sea Rose is right around the corner to the left.

Wouldn’t you know that the restaurant is closed one night a week … tonight! Now it was Tom’s turn to be deflated. However, I was so impressed with his attempts to make my birthday dinner special that I tried to get him laughing as I thanked him for the effort. Dinner out was not going to happen! We walked back down the hill and onto the rock landing. Tom changed back into his wet swimsuit and jumped in for the short swim back to get the dinghy. Back on the boat, we opened the best bottle of wine we had on board and pulled together a simple dinner. It was a memorable birthday spent with my favorite person in the world!  Thank you, Tom, for making life fun.

We got an early start the next morning to make our way down to the island of Poros, which sits less than a kilometer off the mainland of the Peloponnese. What a great number of boats we found scattered through the many anchorages near Poros and along the waterfront docks which surround this cute and bustling town onfthe same name. We found a service to do our laundry and good markets to restock our fresh food. We anchored off the main town for our first night in the area – we had a birthday dinner to go ashore for after-all!

The town of Poros, Greece on the island of the same name.
Some of the long waterfront surrounding the town of Poros, Greece

Our time in the Saronic Gulf was nearing an end. We had friends we would meet on the island of Mykonos, roughly 80 miles east, in less than a week so we would enjoy one more day near Poros before hopping through some of the Cyclades Islands on our way to Mykonos. We picked our laundry up early then relocated to a cove called ‘Russian Bay’. Today was our 27th wedding anniversary and we would do something we seldom let ourselves do – we would go to a beach-bar to relax in lounge chairs, sip cold adult beverages and not do anything else except chat. Aaaahhhhh!

Greek pride on full display on this old chapel!

In the early evening hours, we hiked up the hill behind the cove that we had relocated Sea Rose to. The view from the hilltop was beautiful and the breeze refreshing. We watched boat after boat sail around the headlands toward the town of Poros.

Sea Rose in her second anchorage, Russian Bay, near Poros. These rocks were amazing!
Happy 27th Anniversary to my favorite adventure companion!
Early evening drone shot of sailboats navigating around the headlands protecting the vast harbor of Poros, Greece.

We departed just after sun-up the next day. The sooner we got started, the less intense the sea state would be. However, the channel between the island of Poros and the Peloponnese Peninsula is narrow, shallow and crowded – a passage best done with sunlight.

Overlooking the narrow canal between Poros and the Peloponnese Peninsula, Greece

We were in open waters by 8 am and would soon pass out of the Saronic Gulf and into the Cycladic Island group. Although we only got a taste of the treasures scattered throughout this part of Greece, we will always think back fondly on our time in the Saronic Island Group.

Water, Water Everywhere, Ep. 119

The big news this post is that Tom got our water maker working! We carried all the components of this reverse osmosis desalination system from the states to Italy when we came over in May. Tom had worked on various aspects of the installation since launching, whenever he could find spare minutes. Now we were ready to flip the switch and see how everything had come together.  We ran the system for 30 minutes, making water into a bucket at first. This is a recommended step to clean the system from any manufacturing or shipping particles before running the clean (or desalinated) water into your tanks. He found one leak that was quickly fixed by tightening a hose clamp. After testing the salinity and being comfortable with the level, we turned a valve which directed the flow into one of our two water storage tanks – how exciting! We could now check off one more factor that made us ready for long-term, self-sufficient cruising! Our solar panels supply the energy for electricity, our sails provide power for movement, our freezer enables “fresh” food storage for longer periods and now our water maker turns sea water into drinkable water. This gives us the freedom to stay in remote locations for as long as our food stores hold out!

Continue reading “Water, Water Everywhere, Ep. 119”

Second Helpings, Ep. 117

The day and the hour had arrived. It was time to exit Croatia once and for all. Six weeks ago, we had cleared into a country that we knew only through travel books and friend’s stories. This morning, we would trek back to the harbourmaster’s office to clear out, with a plethora of diverse experiences tucked away in heads, enough to fill a few storytelling sessions around a winter’s fireplace.

Our kids and Andrew were on their way to the airport, and we wasted no time shoving off from the Q dock to make progress south along the isolated last few miles of the Croatian coast before entering Montenegrin waters. This time around, we weren’t groggy from an overnight passage from Italy. We had slept well, and knew exactly where to go and how to clear in to Montenegro.

The well fortified entrance to the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro
Continue reading “Second Helpings, Ep. 117”

Rocky Start, Rolling Finish, Ep. 116

Dubrovnik Harbor as seen from Sea Rose as we motor past

It was mid-July and we were headed back up the Rijecka River just north of Dubrovnik for another quick turn-around for fuel, water, laundry, cleaning and provisioning (all easily done at the ACI Dubrovnik Marina). We were very much looking forward to welcoming our two young-adult kids and one of their friends on board for a week of continued exploration of the amazing Croatian islands. Our fingers were crossed, hoping we had reached the end of the long streak of bad weather we had been coping with. You will recall our last couple blog posts about the many, low-sleep nights we experienced at the hands of Mother Nature where we had a night-time fight with an unfurling code zero followed by several nights of dragging anchors (ours, but more often others) and repositioning boats mid-storm. Our nerves were frayed, our patience was tested and strained and our ability to cope was compromised by not enough sleep. This is not the best way to begin a week with family, but we hoped a night on anchor in a very familiar and secure place would help.

Anchorage in Rijecka River north of Dubrovnik, outside of ACI Marina
Anchorage in Rijecka River north of Dubrovnik, outside of ACI Marina
Continue reading “Rocky Start, Rolling Finish, Ep. 116”

Go North, Go Now, Ep. 114

Moving to the East Coast of the U.S. many years ago, we had to accept the difficulty of staying in touch with our West Coast family roots. Not only did both of our brothers live in California, but much of my extended family was in British Columbia. And despite best intentions, it simply is hard to keep close ties. So I was pleasantly surprised, after reconnecting during a winter ski trip to Western Canada, that my second cousin Graham and his wife Sarah accepted our open invitation to join us for sailing in the Med. Perhaps because of our casual nature, I think they thought they better take us up on our offer before we changed our mind! Both Graham and Sarah sail their own boat on Okanagan Lake, and we always welcome experienced hands onboard Sea Rose. After planning our summer cruising calendar, we reached out to our friend Emmy to see if she could join us for the same week. Emmy took up the challenge last summer, helping us sail overnight from the French Riviera to the rugged island of Corsica, and we knew her friendly demeanor would fit in well with my Canadian family. 

Sarah and Graham
Karen and Emmy
Continue reading “Go North, Go Now, Ep. 114”

The Land of Stunning Parks, Ep. 113

It was mid-June and by this time, we had been in Croatia for a little over two weeks and had spent a lot of time in the southern islands of this lovely country; however, as our next set of friends joined us, we were excited to be moving further northwest into an area abundant with national and nature parks! Tom wrote about our visit to Mljet National Park which occupies significant land and coastline on the island of the same name. Before we would leave Croatia, we will have visited Mljet two more times! This post will introduce two additional national parks and one equally special nature park. We’re lucky to be able to capture this beauty digitally today. I would hate to have had to ration my film use in these amazing places in the days of my youth. Prepare for a high number of photos!

Continue reading “The Land of Stunning Parks, Ep. 113”

Fresh Eyes – The Art of Experiencing Life Like a Child! Ep. 112

We have a bunch of visitors lined up to come stay onboard Sea Rose this summer – 30 in all between mid-May and early October. We are often asked if this is too much and because of these questions, we ask that of ourselves … are we ‘ok’ with the work required to host this many groups and individual people? For us, it comes down to two important factors: (1) the obvious – we love seeing our friends and family and when we travel five months out of the year this is one way to remain connected to people who are important to us; (2) when we have friends and family on board, we live our experiences more fully than we do when it is just Tom and I. Having others around causes us to use fresh, naïve eyes as we pass through the days with our company on board. It is almost like having kids; if you’ve had them you’ll understand what I mean. Parents often free themselves up to re-experience things their kids are learning with abandonment; even getting as silly as their young, exceedingly loved companions! When having people on board for whom our lifestyle is not a regular occurrence, we allow ourselves to become fully immersed in the experiences of our guests, or our ‘kids’ if you will!

Continue reading “Fresh Eyes – The Art of Experiencing Life Like a Child! Ep. 112”

Enchanting Elba Island, Ep. 105

If you are sailing along the west coast of Italy, you’d be hard-pressed not to run into Elba. It sticks out like a big ink blob in this popular Tuscan region of Italy. Students of European history will ask ‘Hey, isn’t that where Napoleon was exiled?’ Indeed it is! But for a couple of non-history majors, all Karen and I were looking for was a rest stop on the great water super-highway to Cinque Terre.

Cinque Terre. If I had a dollar for every time someone had suggested to us – when they learned that we were going to sail around Italy – that we should visit Cinque Terre, I’d be a mighty rich man. But getting all the way north to Cinque Terre requires a bit of time and a comfortable weather window. Elba was the perfect halfway point from our start at the southern end of Corsica. With two 75 mile hops, separated by a little R&R at Elba, we’d be in the Five Lands in no time!

Yet, like so many other times this summer, the particular ports-of-call that guide books and online forums had played down turned out to be unexpectedly extraordinary. Dare I say, enchanting?!

Continue reading “Enchanting Elba Island, Ep. 105”

Check out our YouTube channel for the latest Sea Rose videos! Ep. 104

Hi! Tom here – just a quick note to let you know we have posted recent videos to our YouTube channel ‘LifeFourPointZero‘ of our sailing adventures around Italy, plus an episode of us in a completely different setting… cross-country skiing through the beautiful northern woods of Maine! Check them out here!

And if you are really bold, and want to hear about our tips for anchoring your boat, check out the latest in our of series of how-to videos titled ‘Boat Anchoring 101’!

Finally if you are not already getting notified when we release videos on our YouTube channel, be sure to click on the subscribe button on our YouTube channel, and then the ‘bell’ icon below any one of our videos. If you don’t have one already, you’ll need to create an account on YouTube in order to subscribe. Then, YouTube will email you whenever we post a new video!

Happy spring!

Northbound Along the Sardinia and Corsica Coastlines, Ep. 103

Our friends in and out of the sailing community are often surprised to find that we typically don’t stay in one place more than one night. “Why the rush?!” they ask. It’s a question we debate regularly, and I’ll admit our fast pace can make the cruising life a bit stressful at times. I’m sure this fast pace leads our European neighbors to box us right into the American stereotype of working one’s self to the bone., but there is so much to see. They don’t call the Great Lakes “great” for no reason. And the Mediterranean, well, let’s just say that it’s a massive body of water, steeped in history that puts our American history timeline to shame. Our original plan was to cruise the Med for two seasons – the first would be in the western portion, and the second in the eastern. With half of our first summer already in the bag, there was plenty more to see before we checked the box in the West.

But whoa … hold on American cowboy! Are we done with the island adventures of Sardinia and Corsica? Not yet! It was time for a second helping of island exploring.

Continue reading “Northbound Along the Sardinia and Corsica Coastlines, Ep. 103”